Papercut Magazine

previously published on

BERENIK’s Autumn/Winter 2015 collection was abundant with low-key suits, roomy trousers, and soft fabrics, perfect for the city woman who keeps her style laidback and streamlined.  It seemed fitting then, that designer, Veronika Brusa, kept the venue small and intimate at Studio 450. “It was the first time doing an independent show for me so it was a new process.”

She wasn’t alone in the planning, as Omen PR Director, Mariko Derpa, saw the process through from casting to wearing BERENIK the night of the show. “Casting was so much fun to do with her,” said Brusa, who had a clear concept of the models she wanted. “I thought it would be cool to just have blonde girls and Asian girls in the show.” They didn’t stick completely to that plan, but white hair and vanishing makeup helped to achieve a uniform look on the models. “When you see all the girls together, it’s something that makes them homogeneous.” Most importantly, Brusa and Derpa also based their decisions on each model’s style. “It was important to us that they could actually wear the clothes,” said the designer.

Inspiration for her collection was obscure compared to her casting decisions. Brusa never works from a single concept or theme, but rather lets it unfold as she works. “I never sit there and think of what could be the story.” In the same vain, she cannot describe her AW15 collection in a few words. “It’s hard to say what this collection is in my head, it’s like images floating around. Pretty concrete images.” Her affinity to architecture has been a reference point since she presented her first collection when she lived in Shanghai. “I did some prints there with facades. I never really felt like I was coming to the point.” This season, New York City became her source for a window-clad, skyscraper print. “I arrived here and I was fascinated. In some way it was just happening that, okay, that’s going to be the print.”

Brusa’s signature element for fall is matching separates. “I’m really addicted to this full look in the same fabric.” There were over 20 two-piece sets in matching fabrics and prints, from jumpsuits in shiny polyester and silk, to joggers in metallic jersey and velor with accompanying sweaters. “I sort of couldn’t stop doing more and more.”

It seems that every BERENIK season is a continuation of the last, as Brusa builds upon concepts along her journey as a designer. So continuous, that she was gearing up to start her next collection the Monday after her show. “I’m excited about it! I had so much in my head, but I had to wait until this show was over.”

To see more from BERENIK, visit their website.